White Rain Lily (Zephyranthes candida)

White Rain Lily

Name: Zephyranthes candida

Zones: 7 to 10

Size: 6 to 12 inches tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; rich moist soil.

The white rain lily was one of Elizabeth Lawrence’s favorite little bulbs. These fall bloomers like moist loam and don’t want to compete for water. Lovely white crocus-like flowers will open after it rains; the rest of the year, they offer a pleasing, grass-like leaf.  Rain lilies make a nice ground cover, giving a open area garden nice texture.

Rain Lilies are an idea bulb for a rain garden or planted in a  location made moist from receiving overflow water from a drain spout. Rain lilies have a magical quality about them in that they just seem to know from where the water comes: Rain lilies will bloom to the occasion of rain.

If you’ve been gardening in North Carolina for any amount of time, you, no doubt, have observed these beauties in gardens. Why grow a few of your own in your own landscape?

By: Helen Yoest


The TarHeelGardening blog is published and edited by Helen Yoest. For more information on Tarheel Gardening, please visit our website at Tarheel Gardening- your online resource for North Carolina gardening enthusiasts.

Posted in Ground Covers | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Tarheel Gardening — Wordless Wednesday

Red thymeRed thyme makes a great ground cover.

By: Helen Yoest


The TarHeelGardening blog is published and edited by Helen Yoest. For more information on Tarheel Gardening, please visit our website at Tarheel Gardening- your online resource for North Carolina gardening enthusiasts.

 

 

 

Posted in Wordless Wednesday | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Tarheel Gardening — Wordless Wednesday

Sunchokes

Have you ever eaten Sunchokes? Easy to Grown in NC gardens, and a Native American favorite.

By: Helen Yoest


The TarHeelGardening blog is published and edited by Helen Yoest. For more information on Tarheel Gardening, please visit our website at Tarheel Gardening- your online resource for North Carolina gardening enthusiasts.

 

Posted in Wordless Wednesday | Leave a comment

Monthly NC Garden Chores — August


Tomato harvestHarvest vegetable gardens as needed.
Most of what you have growing in your vegetable garden are annuals. By August, they are looking a little wrung out. As plants end their production cycle, remove them from the garden; otherwise, they may attract insects and disease to the plants that are still productive.

Deadhead flowers. Keep your flowers blooming longer by removing faded blossoms from your cannas, roses, daisies and more.

Fertilizer dos and don’ts. As August arrives, some plants will benefit from an application of fertilizer. For other plants, it could do more harm than good.

Do fertilize:
Summer veggies such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplant continue to produce when fertilized regularly. Use a product that contains 5 percent nitrogen.
Fall vegetable crops
Fall-blooming perennial and annual flowers
Chrysanthemums and dahlias
Cannas
Reblooming iris would benefit from a light application
Warm season lawns (Bermuda and Zoysia) can be fertilized
Remember to water any application of fertilizer well into the soil to provide nutrients for the roots of the plants.

Don’t fertilize:
Azaleas and camellias, because the fertilizer will disturb bud formation.
Summer-flowering shrubs shouldn’t need fertilizing for the same reason.

IMG_7788Propagate roses. Roses can be propagated by layering as late as mid-August. Long, flexible canes are the easiest to propagate because they are easiest to bend into place. Use a clean knife to remove two thorns near the top of the stem and bend it toward the ground. Make a couple of small cuts into the bark between where the thorns were. This is called “wounding the cane.” Hold the wounded area in good contact with the soil with landscape pins and cover with soil, leaving the growing tip of the stem uncovered. It’s also a good idea to put a brick or stone over the covered and wounded cane to give it extra hold.

Next spring, you should see new growth emerge. Once you see new leaves on the rooted stem, carefully remove the entire stem from the parent plant, and recut the stem just beneath the new root mass. Now you are ready to plant your new rose bush.

sawflyPests. See these on your pines? They’re the Pine Sawfly larvae. Pick them off and drop them in a bucket of soapy water.

Bulbs. Select and pre-order your spring-blooming bulbs now while supplies are plentiful. Don’t put off today what will be gone tomorrow. The most unusual bulbs sell out fast. I can say this now because I’ve already put my in order. Try something fun such as the species tulip, Tulipa clusiana.

Cut flowers. Remember those zinnias you seeded in July? Seed more in August, and be sure to cut some to enjoy inside!

By: Helen Yoest


The TarHeelGardening blog is published and edited by Helen Yoest. For more information on Tarheel Gardening, please visit our website at Tarheel Gardening- your online resource for North Carolina gardening enthusiasts.

 

Posted in Monthly NC garden chores | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Tarheel Gardening — Wordless Wednesday

Gaillardia aestivalis var. winkleri.

 

By: Helen Yoest


The TarHeelGardening blog is published and edited by Helen Yoest. For more information on Tarheel Gardening, please visit our website at Tarheel Gardening- your online resource for North Carolina gardening enthusiasts.

 

Posted in Wordless Wednesday | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Sustainable Gardening Practices

INTRODUCTION

The term “Sustainable” gardening seems to have become the buzz word in the gardening community encompassing “green”, “organic”, and “waterwise” gardening practices. Simply put, sustainable gardening is the gardening practice of conserving an ecological balance by avoiding depletion of natural resources.

Gardening sustainably is not and does not need to be an all or nothing proposition.  You can begin with one practice and build form there.  What’s key is to be aware of what practices you perform and think about them before continuing on with business as usual.  It is also good to understand the available options and grow from there.

Most sustainable gardening practices can be delved into deeper, but a good place to begin is with these lessons:  growing the right plant in the right place, practicing water conservation, bed preparation and maintenance, and Integrated Pest Management (IPM.)

Right Plant, Right Place

Putting the right plant in the right place will save you and your resources.  Many plants can be grown outside their recommend growing range with regards to sunlight and water requirements.  In doing so, however, more time and energy is wasted – water, human energy, time.

Planting a moisture loving plant in dry bed is counter-productive.  Study and know your site.  Plant moisture loving plants in a moist area or be prepared to provide.  Plant drought tolerant plants in a dry area, and so on.  Many gardeners like to push hardiness zones, but it is not advisable to push plant needs.  While you can nurse a shade loving plant planted in the sun with water, it’s not sustainable.

Planting native plants and trees is the ultimate example of the right plant in the right place dictum.  Planting these helps to re-establish the local ecosystem. Native plantings have already adapted to this climate, and the native wildlife have adapted to these plants.

WATER CONSERVATION

Water conservation can be achieved from many aspects of garden design and harvesting.  The goal for water conservation is to keep as much of the water on your property as possible.  This can be done so by reducing impervious surfaces, slowing falling rainwater enough so as it doesn’t go to the storm drains, building rain gardens, and to water less and smartly.

Waterwise

Most of us don’t want to be denied a plant based on watering needs. But be prudent. Garden water wisely. Understand your garden’s watering zones.  Dragging a hose past 10 drought tolerant plants to water a thirsty one is neither sustainable nor practical.

A waterwise garden design is comprised of three gardening zones:  oasis, transitional, and xeric.

The “oasis zone” is still the area closest to the water source. But now these sources can be drain spouts, rain barrels, the outlet of a French drain, and the area around the front door to easily water your container plants with say, the “wasted” water used indoors.

The “transitional zone” is the area away from the house about midway from the home and the end of the property. Plantings here should be sustainable requiring only occasional supplemental water. Typically, these areas are island beds, driveway beds, or raised beds.

The “xeric zone” is at the property’s perimeter. These plants should be tough requiring no supplemental water. This area can be filled with dependable drought-resistant plants.

The key is to select plants that don’t require supplemental watering or if they do, they can be watered with water collected from nature or clean water from inside the home that would otherwise be wasted.

Water Smart

Water plants directly to the root zone by hand or using soaker or drip irrigation.  Overhead sprinklers are not sustainable due to the water lost through evaporation and wind. Water according to plant needs, not a rigid schedule. Water infrequently, but deeply.

BED PREPARATION/MAINTENANCE

Soil

We need to accept the soil we’re dealt or be prepared to amend.  In our area of the Piedmont region of North Carolina, there is clay and sand. In the heart of Raleigh, it’s all clay. As you move outside of Raleigh, you’ll find sandy soil. It is important to read plant labels.  If the label recommends planting in well drained soils, and your have clay, just know some amending will need to occur.  In any garden soil type, you cannot go wrong adding more organic matter.

Fertilizer

Reduce or eliminate fertilizer use. If you must use chemical fertilizers, be sure to closely follow the directions on the bag.  Using more fertilizer than directed will not help your plants grow any more.  Over fertilizing also increases the risk of not working its way into the ground becoming available as runoff to pollute local waterways.  Begin a compost pile to create your own organic fertilizer.

Mulching

Covering garden beds with mulch is one of the best things you can do for your garden. Used generously, mulch breaks down to add nutrients to the soil, helps retain moisture, moderates the soil temperature, improves soil texture, suppresses weeds, and looks great; and it really makes the garden look tidy.  Mulch all uncovered soil for water retention, weed control, and to improve the soil’s structure.

Weeding

Weeds compete for water with you desirable plants.  Even if the sight of weeds is acceptable in your garden, removing them will help stop the spread of environmental weeds. Find out what plants have become weeds in your area and, if you have them, weed them out or safely kill or contain them.

Composting

Composting garden and kitchen waste. In Raleigh, we have separate yard waste pick up.  If yard waste is rid properly, it won’t end up in the landfill.  But if you have the room to compost, then you don’t have to buy it back to use in your own garden.  If more fertilizer is needed, using organic sources only, like aged manure, compost tea, and those that are fish- or seaweed-based can be used.

There a few approaches to building a compost.  Choose whatever type suits your garden — a three-bay heap for a large property, a classic upside-down-bin style to place in an average garden, a tumble-type bin that neatly sits on a paved area or a bucket to keep in your kitchen.

Compost systems can be either hot or cold.  Hot requires regular a turning maintenance.  Cold takes longer to break down, but if you have the room, it is the easiest way to compost.  In cold composting, the kitchen and yard waste only needs to be piled.  After it reaches a certain height, start another.  When that one is full, go back to the other.  Hopefully it will be ready to use when you are.

Mature compost ends up as a delightful humus to use as a soil conditioner in your sustainable garden.

IPM

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is an effective approach to pest management using the most economical means with the least possible hazard to people, property and the environment.

IPM is not a single pest control method, but rather, a series of pest management evaluations, decisions and controls. It’s the judicious use of pesticides.

IPM follows a four-tiered approach:

  1. Determine action threshold.  Sighting a single pest doesn’t necessarily mean control is needed.
  2. Monitor and Identify Pests. Not all insects, weeds, and other living organisms require control. Many organisms are innocuous and even beneficial. IPM programs work to monitor for pests and identify them accurately, so that appropriate control decisions can be made in conjunction with action thresholds.
  3. Prevention.  Rotating between different crops, selecting pest-resistant varieties, and planting pest-free rootstock. Also planting in areas to provide good air circulation prevents problems with pests.
  1. Control.  Effective, less risky pest controls are chosen first, including highly targeted chemicals, such as pheromones to disrupt pest mating, or mechanical control, such as trapping or weeding. If further monitoring, identifications and action thresholds indicate that less risky controls are not working, then additional pest control methods would and could be used, such as targeted spraying of pesticides. Broadcast spraying of non-specific pesticides is a last resort.

As individual gardeners, we can each use these lessons to do a small part to help lessen our footprint on the environment with our gardening practices.  We gardeners make up large number including more than 7 million new gardeners each year.  Each of us can make a difference by avoiding the depletion of our natural resources.

By: Helen Yoest


The TarHeelGardening blog is published and edited by Helen Yoest. For more information on Tarheel Gardening, please visit our website at Tarheel Gardening- your online resource for North Carolina gardening enthusiasts.

Posted in Sustainable Gardening Practices | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Wordless Wednesday — Blackberry Season!

Blackberries

 

It’s blackberry season in North Carolina gardens and landscapes. Do you grow blackberries? Do you know there are thornless varieties?

 

Words by:  Helen Yoest

Sponsored by the North Carolina Nursery and Landscape Association

 

 

Posted in Wordless Wednesday | Leave a comment

Monthly NC Garden Chores – July

2013 showstopper plants

July is your prize after many months of gardening — from fall prep to spring planning — and you now get to reap your rewards with fresh fruits, vegetables and fragrant flowers. Gardening can continue in your North Carolina garden right through July. We have the weather to garden year round.

It is a time of abundance. July may not the best planting month for Southeast gardens, but it’s a good time to plan and prepare. Check out your local nursery for additions to your landscape, though; if you do plan to plant, just be sure to give any new plantings extra water until they established.

The weeds will not let you rest, but they might slow down to a manageable pace during the dog days of summer. Rainfall will best determine how much time you’ll spend weeding. Little rain, fewer weeds. More rain, more weeds.

Gardening with Confidence Blackberry Punch

Cut back annuals: Cut back summer annuals so they don’t get leggy. A good time to do this is right before you go on vacation; this way, you will be gone as the plants get a fresh start. Petunias benefit from this kind of summer pinch. This cutback from the ends of the stems encourages branching, resulting in a bushier plant.

Tickseed

Practice wise watering methods: July can be a month with limited rainfall. When nature stops providing regular rain, you may need to supplement. Here are some tips to help your garden during a dry season:

  • Chances are your container plants will need to be watered every day. Check by doing the finger test. If the top inch of soil is dry, it’s time to water. Water thoroughly. Small pots will dry out faster than larger pots, and containers in the sun will dry out faster than those in the shade.
  • Add mulch. A layer of mulch, 3 to 4 inches deep, will moderate soil temperature and reduce evaporation. Organic mulches include: composted leaves, shredded pine or hardwoods, and even nuggets. Mulches will also reduce weed production and keep the garden looking tidy.
  • First season plants — those fall and spring additions — will need more frequent watering than established ones. Water new additions two or three times per week until the plants are established. Established plants typically require watering once a week.
  • Conserve water by running a sprinkler during cooler hours, typically early in the morning. This will help reduce water loss due to evaporation. If possible, set up a drip irrigation system or a soaker hose to minimize waste. Watering in the morning hours also allows the water to dry on the foliage, minimizing fungal formation.

Deadhead daisies

Deadhead and deadleaf spent flowers: Remove hosta flowers after the bloom is spent. They’re primarily decorative and not an energy source for the plant, so they don’t need to die back completely before removing.

Deadhead the spent flowers of daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.)Shasta daisies(Leucanthemum spp.), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia spp.) and bee balm (Monarda spp.) to extend the bloom time.

Do those yellow leaves of the daylily make you see red? They do to me. Not only do I deadhead my daylilies, but I also deadleaf. I don’t like the look of yellow or decaying daylily leaves.

Iris

Divide irises: Did you have success with your new iris planted this year or in the fall? If not, it could be due to several factors: too much shade, too much fertilizer, too deep a planting, or crowding. July is a good time to correct any of these problems by lifting and relocating or repositioning to a more favorable location.

Plant the iris high with the rhizomes along the surface of the dirt. They will be covered finely and lightly with mulch, but not soil. Make sure you can either see the rhizomes or have the ability to brush away the mulch exposing the bulb.

With the exception of Louisiana variety, irises need six to eight hours of sunlight to bloom and require good drainage. If you have a damp, partial sun location in your garden, plant a Louisiana iris

Raspberries

Harvest summer edibles: Harvest tomatoes when they are ripe. There is nothing better than sinking your teeth into a ripe tomato, warmed from the summer sun. Didn’t plant tomatoes? Visit your local farmers market for a selection of fresh, field-grown varieties.In your home garden, keep an eye out for early blight. Blight is a fungal disease that will cause spots to develop on the foliage. The leaves begin to yellow and then drop. Pinch off foliage at first indication. If too severe, there are several fungicides that can be used to reduce the symptoms.

After the blackberry and raspberry harvest, remove the old fruiting canes to make room for the new canes that will produce next year’s crop.

bagworms

Manage pests: Do yourself a favor and never look into the “eye” of a bagworm. Bagworms have got to be the most disgusting looking thing ever — to me anyway

Bagworms can be treated by removing them by hand and dropping into a bucket of soapy water. If the bagworm infestation isn’t within easy reach, they can be sprayed with Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt.Bt is a microbial insecticide that’s commonly used to control various caterpillars such as the red-headed azalea caterpillar along with many others, as well as bagworms.

For more information, check out the North Carolina Extension Agency July Garden Calendar.

Words by:  Helen Yoest

Sponsored by the North Carolina Nursery and Landscape Association

 

Posted in Monthly NC garden chores | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Wordless Wednesday–Gardening For The Butterflies

Gardening for the butterflies

 

 

Words by:  Helen Yoest

Sponsored by the North Carolina Nursery and Landscape Association

 

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Telling the difference between English and Spanish Bluebells

English Bluebell Hyacinthoidesnon-scriptaCommon Name:  English Bluebells

Botanical Name:  Hyacinthoides non-scripta

Color: True blue

Type: Perennial bulb

Size: 1 to 1.5 feet x .25 to .5 feet

Soil: Well-drained

pH: Slightly acidic

Exposure: Full sun to part shade

Watering: Average to medium mosture

Zone: 5 to 8

Origin: Western Europe

Use: great in the mixed border, under deciduous trees. English bluebells are tolerant of heavy clay and will even grow under black walnut trees. These can be found through your favorite bulb dealer for gardening and landscaping in North Carolina.

Plant bulbs about 3-4 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart in the fall. Naturalizes well by both bulb offsets and self-seeding in optimum growing conditions. Bluebells are ephemeral, going dormant by early summer.

The English bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) will easily hybridize with the Spanish bluebells (Hyancinthoides hispanica), if planted near each other, resulting in different forms appearing through self-seeding.

Bluebells are particularly effective when naturalized in large drifts under deciduous trees or at the margins of shade or woodland gardens.  Bluebells also work well grown in containers, either alone or in combination with other spring flowering bulbs.

We are often asked how to tell the difference between the English and the Spanish bluebells. English bluebell is very similar to Spanish bluebell except English bluebell has fragrant flowers, arching flowering racemes, and shorter flowering stems.

The English bluebell is usually found in the woods and prefers some shade. In nature, it is unusual to find them on open ground. An interesting trait is that when the flowers are fully formed, the stalk of the English bluebells curves downwards. If all the flowers are on one side of the flower stalk, it’s most likely English bluebells. The weight (and gravity) of these flower heads on one side causes the stale to have curving flowering racemes.

BluebellsIn nature, the Spanish bluebells are usually found on open ground; it is unusual to find Spanish bluebells in the woods.  Also, when the flowers are fully formed, the stalk is very straight. Unlike the English bluebells where the flowers are on one side of the stalk, the Spanish bluebell stalks have flowers all around the stalk. 

Words by:  Helen Yoest

Sponsored by the North Carolina Nursery and Landscape Association

Posted in Bulbs | Tagged , | Leave a comment